The lights dim as a singer in a traditional Russian folk costume takes the stage. Accompanied by two dancers in vibrant dresses, she begins to sing a melancholic Russian ballad. The guests — moments before enjoying fine Russian cuisine and glasses of chilled vodka — turn toward the stage.
There is festivity and nostalgia simultaneously, as the performance transports them to another time. This is Kaspia, now in Dubai, under the stewardship of Alexis Brinn, General Manager and French entrepreneur who has immersed himself in Russian culture since taking the helm of the restaurant. Lara Palmer met him to understand the story and what it means to transport a century-old institution from Paris to the Gulf.
The Kaspia story unfolds in the aftermath of the Bolshevik revolution, when supporters of the Tsar sought refuge in Paris. Among those emigres was Arkady Vixen, a Russian chef who longed for the culinary tastes of his motherland. In 1927, yearning to recreate the flavours of Tsarist Russia, he inaugurated Kaspia, spotlighting the opulent caviars from the Caspian Sea.
The history of caviar itself is instructive. In the United States during the 18th and 19th centuries, caviar was so plentiful it was served at bars like nuts are today. By the early 20th century, excessive fishing led to a drastic decline in sturgeon populations.
Since 2008, the capture of wild sturgeon for roe has been prohibited. This scarcity made caviar what it is today. Kaspia’s selection spans nine premium types, from creamy Golden Osetra to the exceptionally rare Almas albino caviar — the diamond of caviars, derived from albino sturgeons found primarily in Iran — white, almost ethereal in appearance, the most sought-after and most expensive.
Each type is selected with meticulous care. The dining concept at Kaspia melds fine dining with a dynamic party atmosphere. On special Zastoli evenings, live music and dance progressively infuse the experience — guests find themselves swept up in festivities, with scarves swirling, becoming active participants in the Russian tradition of animated toasting and bonding that thrives over shared meals.
Each guest is greeted with a shot glass upon arrival — infused honey, cinnamon, raspberry, or cherry vodka, presented in charming little carafes. As Kaspia extends its hospitality from Paris to Dubai, it beckons a global audience: expatriates yearning for a taste of home and curious epicures eager to discover the richness of Russian culinary heritage.